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This page provides updates and further understanding of the various enamleing techniques.
Table of Contents
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ChamplevÉ
ChamplevÉ Masquerading as CloisonnÉ
On pages 46-47 there is a sidebar providing 6 ways to distinguish the differences between these two techniques. Here is another one...
This question is whether this button is Cloisonne or Champleve. Although it looks like wires, there is no enamel in the "background" of the button, which would make for the "wires" to not be structurally secure. Anyway, this little beauty is most likely cast and thus forms "depressions" to receive the enamel. Enameling in depressions is the defintion of the technique of Champleve. Thus this button is Champleve.2ndOrder4Brocade_Names_web

Consider this vase. It is not totally the same as the button but similar. It is an example of a style of Champleve designed by the Koizumi Company in 20th century Japan. This can be referenced in Schneider's book The Art of Japanese Cloisonné Enamel on page C-31, Fig 121.

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Gin-bari
In general, Gin-bari is an embossed foil technique. That means that the design has to be outdented! Many similar looking Japanese Silver Basse Taille designs have dots that are indented which cannot be made by embossing and is one way to tell the difference. However, sometimes the embossed design will look somewhat indented as in this 5/16" dimi:

The reason it looks like this follows: These dots look like they have outdented rims but most have indented centers. This can happen during the stage when the foil is fused to the enamel layer underneath it. When the embossed foil is fired on, usually you use a tool that I’ll call a “poofer” to pat down the foil so it solidly sticks to the underlying enamel. At that point, the top of the embossing might indent. But you can see the “rim” of it is embossed so that’s the key to look at. Here is one of mine where you can see the same thing and I KNOW this is Gin-bari because I made it. lol

In the past button world, Gin-bari was not well understood. It is a Japanese technique that uses silver foil to completely cover the base of the image. The foil does not have to be textured, but in general, especially in buttons, it frequently is. Here is a button that was on the cover of the Februrary 2011 Bulletin and it's description is not correct which I will discuss below.
 
This button (owned by Carole Adrian) has the same look as button #208 pg 56 in my book. I expect they were made by the same artist. This does not look like it was made in Japan, but all techniques were/are done in a variety of countries so you can't say this isn't Gin-bari if it was made in a different country, because it fits the defintion - the base is totally covered with silver foil. Button #208 was not listed as Gin-bari in my book because I didn't think of that at the time, but it is also Gin-bari. In fact, many of Diana Weiler's Cloisonné buttons are also Gin-bari because she typically uses copper and puts down a layer of silver foil before she does her wires. These, too, collectors have not considered Gin-bari, but they are.
The Feb 2011 cover says this has multiple colored foils. But that is not true - this only has silver foil for the background and some gold foil under the wings and "skirt" below the cherub's left arm. The "multi-colored foil" is really silver foil with transparent enamel over it. Remember that enamels have to be fired at high temperatures in a kiln and can only take metal foils which come in silver, gold, platinum and copper.
Note also that the wings and "skirt" are Grisaille (actually Camaïeu) as they are built up white over the gold foil. The cherub in this one is not Grisaille because the build up for enamel does not take advantage of the background color for it's shadows, like button #208 does. Grisaille requires a build up of layers of white (and sometimes tints) to form the highlights and shadows and thus the background always shows through.
The description of this button in Feb 2011 bulletiin also says this is Limoges-style. I do not think it is because the foil does not enhance the painted object itself (it's only the background). Button #208's description also does not say it's Limoges-style. Then again, except for references in my book, Limoges-style is not defined in the button world. Because of the foil, I would give this a BOD for being Limoges-style.
Note the counter enamel: do you recognize this as being done with clear enamel (called flux)? See Figure 2.5 page 34 in my book. |
Gin-bari vs Japanese Silver Basse Taille
The 2027 Blue Book section 4-1.6, is for Gin-bari/gin-jippo. This states:
Both are styles of Japanese enameling which use a thin sheet of silver (gin) foil as a background. The foil is stamped with a pattern or incised with a design. Layers of enamel are applied, usually to add a subject matter or enhance the background. Gin-bari is without cloisons or wires. Gin-jippo (silver with wires) is the same technique but adds wires to separate the design elements.
This is not accurate. Gin-bari (or Ginbari) does have silver foil as the base and is an enameling technique which can include, but doesn't have to include, Cloisonne. However, Gin-jippo is a description of an enameled piece using silver as the base metal (defined on page 116 in my book) - it's like saying "silver enamelware." When the Gin-jippo base is texturized, it is silver Basse Taille which can include, but doesn't have to include, Cloisonne.
It is sometimes difficult to distinguish the difference between Gin-bari and Gin-jippo Basse Taille, with or without Cloisonne. My study of these two techniques have led me to create a list that may help determine the differences. Furthermore, while I believe my list is comprehensive and useful, I wanted to collaborate with two experts who could validate my list. Unfortunately, both I have networked with have passed away. The two renown gentlemen were Gregory Irvine, curator of the Japanese exhibts at Victoria and Albert Museum in England, and Fredrice Schneider, author of The Art of Japanese Cloisonné Enamel: History, Techniques and Artists, 1600 to the Present (both have confirmed my definitions). In the meantime, I will continue to seek and connect with other experts in order to validate my list. If anyone can assist, please email me. Additions and corrections are always welcome.
Here is my list, with examples, on how to tell the difference between Gin-bari and Gin-Jippo Basse Taille
(click on a button to see a larger image):
| Although the Japanese do not distinguish this, there are two types of Gin-bari: low relief Gin-bari has an overall pattern, frequently with Cloisonne over it |

With Cloisonne: Notice the overall pattern in the background.

Without Cloisonne: Notice the overall pattern in the background. This is a modern Studio Button as I could not find a low relief Gin-bari without Closionne. If someone has one I'll replace this one. |
| The second type of Gin-bari: high relief Gin-bari has a foreground object which is colorized differently from the background; the background has an overall pattern. No Cloisonne is ever included. |
 
Notice the high level is colorized as it is the focal of the button. Also, the background's overall dot pattern is embossed for both of these. |
| Gin-bari patterns are embossed and thus "outdented" or raised from the surface; they cannot be indented or below the surface. |
see above |
Gin-jippo (silver) Basse Taille patterns are usually higher and sharper, as it’s possible to get this with sheet metal and not in foil.
In addition, the patterns are not overall patterns as in Gin-bari.
This texturizing of the base metal is like the original Basse Taille pieces that were created after transparent enamel was invented in the late Middle Ages (see page 4 in my book). Today, Basse Taille patterns are frequenlty amorphous patters to give movement to the top design. However, the Motiwala Brothers' buttons, called Liquid Enamels, also use the same Basse Taille concept - the design is engraved into the metal and the design is colorized in transparent enamel. |

The overall pattern is the design and the dot pattern in the background is indented. |
Gin-jippo (silver) Basse Taille with Cloisonne does not have a background with an overall pattern or texture, but one that compliments the Cloisonne design.
In these two examples of Gin-jippo Basse Taille, the dot pattern is raised. This makes no difference in this case - in Basse Taille, it's a matter of texture, not whether it's embossed or engraved. |


With Cloisonne: Notice the
background pattern complements
the Cloisonne design in both of
these buttons. |
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GuillochÉ
As described in the book (page 43), Guilloché is a specialized form of Basse Taille in that the pattern has to be engraved by an engine-turning machine, operated by a skilled craftperson. This section provides some additional information about this enameling technique.
Note the word: "engraved" in the paragraph above. This means that the lines are cut INTO the metal surface and are thus indented. No Guilloché pattern is raised above the surface as that would have resulted by an embossing/casting method. Another tell is if the indented lines are curved at the bottom, not sharp - remember that Guilloché is as bright as it is becuase the engraving is at an angle and sharp so that the light reflects brilliantly through the enamel. Be sure to keep these concepts in mind when purchasing a button labeled as Guilloché.
The Enamel Tech Talk sidebar called Engine-Turning Machines For Guilloché (page 44) goes over the 3 types of machines that produce patterns for Guiloché. Most buttons have radial designs which are from the Rose engine. The Straight-line engine produces fancy lines that are parallel and I have at least one button from that machine (button 348, page 83). The Brocade engine has much more complex designs and cannot always be identified as Guilloché without being told. Here are metal pieces I just bought to make buttons. These were done by engine-turner Tig Lichty. Note: all in the photo are done by a Brocade engine except the lower right which was from both a Rose Engine (radial border) and a Line Engine (center pattern).

I would like to point out three errors in the book regarding this technique (these can be found on the Corrections page):
- Figure 3.5 (page 44) is not an actual Rose engine set up for engraving, although it is a Rose engine but set up for other work.
- The ETT says engine-turning machines are no longer made but that is not true today (2025) - see the Corrections page for more information
- Button 56 (page 14) is probably not Guilloché. This is an example of a pattern that looks like Guilloché because of the radiating lines in the center. However, the "stars" on the borders cannot be done via engine turning and it would make no sense to press these first and then engine turn the center with the problems of centering it and ensuring the cutting didn't disturb the outer design, especially if you are making more than one of these discs. Because the back of the button does not show it was pressed into thin metal, it was most likely cast.

Button 56 page 14 |
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